Trouvé sur un site d'annonce en france, recu ce matin donc encore dans son jus ...
Selon le n° de serie ce n'est une production santa ana Us, mais pour l'année 1992 ? car vu l'equipement gt epoch - potence - couronne j'aurais vu plus cela dans les années 80 ...
Pour les roues c'est du 20 x 1 3/8 si quelqu'un est interessé pour un echange contre des roues 20"
Bizarre le serial sous le boitier pour un 85 (le serial est sur les pattes arriére communement en 85 et avec la balle pour le jap)....
J'en ai eu plusieurs de 85 et aucun n'avais de Serial sous le boitier....
Sa provenance doit étre différente, les Serial sous les boitiers c'étais trés souvent du Taiwan pour les grandes marques (Hutch par exemple) et le Jap symbolisé par la balle de baseball et le Serial sur une patte arriére.
Ni Jap ni US donc...
Un GT Belge
Un joli vélo en tous cas quasi parfait, hé bien dis donc Fred...
Les mousses sympas..
OVERSEAS on est n'est pas sur les forums Anglais ou Ricain Jean Louis..
Un peu long, mais ça peut aider !! pour la traduction, pas le temps, Lost va commencer !!!!
here is an email I got from an actual employee of GT.:
If the bike frame was manufactured at the Santa Ana CA facility, the first three or four digits of the serial number should be letters abbreviating the model or size of the frame such as "XL", "XXL", CR24, or something like that.
The next part of the serial number is eight numeric digits. The first four numbers should be a two digit month followed by a two digit year.
The last four digits are the serialization digits 0000 to 9999 depending on what number the frame was of the years production.
If the frame was made overseas in Taiwan, it gets more complicated. If the number starts with a K, the frame was made by Kinesis.
That's the only one I remember off the top of my head.
There were at least four companies in Taiwan that made the GT lines :
Robinson, Dyno, Powerlite and Auburn included)
The first digit would be a letter designating the factory that made the frame. There might also be a second letter digit specifying the factory that assembled the bike, if applicable. The model and year of production was also coded by a letter, so you won't be able to spot a two digit month and two digit year.
Before I left, I was writing a specification to standardize all of the serial numbers because GT was starting to send most of its US production to other US fabrication shops.
The information might also come in handy for deciphering other makes because the factories in Taiwan make bikes for a lot of different companies.
I am tinkering around with the idea of starting to make my own frames, kind of on a "one-off" basis. I am also teaching welding at a local community college.
By the way, did I tell you that the guy ran GT's in house fabrication for the last ten years (he recently retired) was none other than Gilbert Axt. Who? Do you remember Race, Inc.? That was Gilbert.
He also did the original PK Ripper for SE Racing. History, man.
It might be a really cool thing if I can track down Gilbert now and interview him for you.
THAT is the kind of stuff that belongs in the BMX Museum!
Later. I'll write you when I get a chance. Dan Garcia
and here is the updates, thanks to love thegoose! (Michael S)
well we get a good bit of gt serials that could be identified by the owner, if they only had the tips that some of us have learned, so i will post what i know, and anyone with more knowledge can add to it..so here we go.
here is an example to go by. on the dropout you have "M1" followed by "08922198"..this one is simple.
M1 stands for "mach one" that is your model gt.
it can also be a "I" for interceptor and so on.
next on the serial is "0892" this is easy to decode too,
08 means 8th month, which would be august.
then you have "92" next in the lineup, this would be 1992
the last 4 digits, are your build number, this one would be the 2,198th one built.
Here is another example. if your serial is KGCG2297 this one gets a little complicated. but still easy once you learn the code to it.
the first letter is who made the frame itself, in this case it would be "Kenisis", an overseas company.this could be replaced by another letter but at least we know what that one is there for.
next is the letter "G"..this isnt always there, but if so, this is where it was assembled, (ever notice the built in usa sticker on your gt or dyno?) this is what that letter is there for. it wasnt made here, but was built here.
next is the letter "C"..C is the 3rd letter in the alphabet, and march is the 3rd month, so march is the build month.
next is the letter "G" this is the year. G is the 7th letter in the alphabet,
so this would be a 1987.
here is one more..your serial resembles this:f6030578.
to start, if you have a "baseball" looking stamp behind your serial, this frame was made overseas...no its not a pacific, so dont cry, or get mad...and lets continue.
on this serial, the first number is the last digit of the year, so 6 stands for 1986
next is "03"....this is the third month..which is march.
so you have a gt built in march of 1986.
but still use the museum as a guide to id the frame, cause sometimes you can find the year, but getting a posotive id on the model isnt possible without knowing which style frame you have.
this doesnt apply to new gt's, but hopefully some people with info on those will chime in. this isnt always going to match your serial, you may have a "fake"..its not likely but it happens. also on earlier models this can differ. this is for the 2 most popular style serial's i see on here. also, common sense tells you that if you have a suspected "gt" frame, look it up and compare it in the musuem, knowing which style frame you have will help with the process of id'ing your bike with the serial, especially if the serial has some damage that prevents you from getting the full number.
hopefully this bit of info can be used for everyone, and this will save you from those late nights sitting around waiting for a response to your post looking for an answer to the idendity to your gt...although i do feel smart and proud when i can answer these posts. well, thats it for me, if anyone else has info on serials or if you see a mistake in this guide, tell me so i can edit it. happy holidays people.
Hé les connards ! Vous pouvez faire griller un porcelet s'il vous plaît ? (Caius Camillus)
ça peut pas etre un 87 l'emplacement du frein ar avais un autre lookk a cette epoque mais bon je peux me tromper connais rien en race mais pour avoir eu un gt pro serie en 87 (made in usa ) c'est pas le mème ni la fouche d'ailleur
donc je dis 85 et persiste et signe
poupa lee a écrit : ça peut pas etre un 87 l'emplacement du frein ar avais un autre lookk a cette epoque mais bon je peux me tromper connais rien en race mais pour avoir eu un gt pro serie en 87 (made in usa ) c'est pas le mème ni la fouche d'ailleur
donc je dis 85 et persiste et signe
Un 85 avec un SERIAL sous le boitier pédalier Non pas un 85.... (j'en ai eu plusieurs 85 en temps réel et aprés et tous avaient le SERIAL sur une patte arriére)
Personne à dis que c'est un PRO SERIE, pas moi en tous cas.
Je sais de quoi tu parle pour la patte arriére différente, mais j'ai pas connu aprés 86.
Moi, je dis un Mach One de 86 ou 87, avec la plupart de ses pièces d'origine, qui étaient les mêmes que le Pro Series. Juste un restickage Pro de 1985. Mais le num de série ne colle pas ...
Le cadre est aussi identique sur l'Interceptor, mais l'équipement était cheap à l'époque.
Hé les connards ! Vous pouvez faire griller un porcelet s'il vous plaît ? (Caius Camillus)
Le problème, c'est que s'il vient d'une fabrication overseas, et même si GT donnait des indications précises pour frapper les num de séries, les asiatiques n'en faisaient qu'à leurs têtes ... Donc le M1 d'un Mach One n'est pas forcément frappé comme il faut.
Le problème ne se pose pas pour le Pro Series, qui était de toute façon forcément fabriqué aux US jusqu'en 87.
Hé les connards ! Vous pouvez faire griller un porcelet s'il vous plaît ? (Caius Camillus)
) c'est pas le mème ni la fouche d'ailleur
